Varos

Varos grew up outside the walls as the quarter of fishermen and farm workers, and its plan still says so: single-storey stone houses packed along lanes too narr…Varos grew up outside the walls as the quarter of fishermen and farm workers, and its plan still says so: single-storey stone houses packed along lanes too narrow and too steep for a car, with washing overhead and cats in the doorways.

The small Romanesque church of St Nicholas has stood here since the twelfth century. The quarter earns its place on a visitor's map for two other reasons, though. The konobas tucked into it are where Dalmatian home cooking carried on through the cruise years, and the stairway to the Vidilica terrace starts at its upper edge, which is how most people walk onto Marjan.