DeListes

Fish, olive oil and the grill on one side; lamb, cheese and the heavier plates of the hinterland on the other. The modern part of the billing is in the handling…Fish, olive oil and the grill on one side; lamb, cheese and the heavier plates of the hinterland on the other. The modern part of the billing is in the handling rather than in the ingredients, which stay where they have always been.

Tables go to whoever arrives, so timing is the whole strategy: early, or late enough that the first sitting has cleared. The position helps, close enough to the palace to catch passing trade and far enough out that the room is not given over to it entirely.