Pizzeria Portas

Two rooms indoors and a vine-shaded terrace seating about forty, a few steps in from the north gate and inside a quarter that has been standing for seventeen ce…Two rooms indoors and a vine-shaded terrace seating about forty, a few steps in from the north gate and inside a quarter that has been standing for seventeen centuries. The pizza list is long and the vegetarian versions are a proper section rather than one token entry.

Wine and cocktails are picked to go with the food instead of listed as an afterthought. The same family has been running it since at least 2015, which is a long stretch in a part of town where restaurants turn over fast.